Sport climbing tried something new at the World Games in Chengdu, and it delivered a shake-up. For the first time at a major multi-sport event, athletes raced side by side in a four-lane format — and it was China and Indonesia who walked away with the golds.
Long Jianguo Shatters National Record
China’s Long Jianguo thrilled the home crowd by storming to the men’s title in 4.74 seconds, a new Chinese record. The former World Cup winner looked in trouble earlier in the knockout rounds but regained composure to secure his spot in the four-man final.
“There’s so much unpredictability in this format,” Long admitted afterward. “When four people are climbing at once, you don’t really know where you stand until you hit the pad at the top.”
Indonesia’s Kiromal Katibin, once the world record holder, took silver with 4.81 seconds, while Kazakhstan’s Rishat Khaibullin edged into bronze just two hundredths of a second behind.
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Dominates Women’s Final
The women’s showdown saw all four climbers put in clean runs. Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi claimed gold in 6.35 seconds, ahead of Chinese newcomer Qin Yumei (6.42). A razor-thin margin decided bronze, with Rajiah Sallsabillah — also from Indonesia — finishing just 0.005 seconds ahead of Poland’s Natalia Kalucka.
“I felt this format was so much fun from the very first run,” said Long. His words echoed the sentiment from officials, who see the four-lane race as a crowd-pleasing alternative to the traditional Olympic two-lane duels.
Why the Format Matters
International Federation of Sport Climbing vice president Toru Kobinata described the World Games as a testing ground for innovations. He pointed out that racing four at a time makes for better viewing and adds unpredictability. But he also cautioned that the physical strain is higher, and officials are still studying how best to integrate new formats like the four-lane and speed relay.
China Adds Gymnastics Gold
The hosts didn’t stop at climbing. In aerobic gymnastics, China’s five-member team — four men and one woman — secured gold with a high-energy routine themed around firefighters. Their performance scored 20.265 points, comfortably ahead of Italy and Romania.
Duathlon: Mexico’s Alvarez Edges to Victory
On the endurance front, Mexico’s Anahi Alvarez Corral produced a gutsy display to capture the women’s individual duathlon. She broke clear late in the cycling section and crossed the line in 1:25:31, just two seconds ahead of Spain’s Maria Varo Zubiri. Belgium’s Jeanne Dupont claimed bronze.
“I came prepared for a fight,” Alvarez said after her debut Games victory. “The Spanish and Belgian teams are so strong, but I enjoyed every moment of this race.”
The duathlon competition wraps up Sunday with the mixed relay.
